• Finishing laying all the ties for the track.
• Laying down the rail.
• Putting up the extruded foam mountain forms.
• Covering the foam forms with plaster / Sculptamold.

Why handlaid track?  Appearance mostly, but also because I happened to have a good stash of Code 40 rail I’d already purchased for use on some N Scale sidings, and thought it would be a fun challenge.  The Z scale railroad is for display only, not operation (unlike my N scale endeavor) so it won’t include any switches, and I’m hoping to get some decent photographs from it when it’s done.  Peco makes some Z scale flextrack apparently, but it’s fairly large (code 65 i believe) and didn’t look right to me in photographs.

I purchased a tie rack jig from Fast Tracks, and proceeded to lay down the ties, which took a few hours, but went off mostly without a hitch.  If I had to do it over again, I would more carefully draw the centerline on the roadbed to prevent a few areas where I got off the correct radius, but they’re hard to notice, and most of the track is hidden on this layout so it’s not the end of the world.

I also used for the first time a Fast Tracks Rail Roller, without which the entire project would have been doomed.  This tool makes it possible to bend rail very accurately and consistently to precise radii, something that’s a must when you’re handlaying.  In Z scale, the code 40 rail I was using was too small and delicate for spikes, so I ended up having to glue down the rail using Pliobond.  If I hadn’t had pre-curved rail this never would have worked.

One limitation of the rail roller which I believe is unavoidable is you don’t really know exactly what radius of curve you’re bending until you try it.  You can rebend rail to fix the curve, so it’s not a horrible problem, and I’d rather have to guess a little then buy a different tool for each code of rail that you use.

All in all, the handlaying was enjoyable, and not too difficult, but I’d like to take a moment and really complain that the NMRA doesn’t have a standards gauge for Z Scale.  This is just unacceptable and I’m really left wondering just how hard it would be to come out with a standards gauge for a scale that’s been around for 20+ years.  Very disappointing, and it made this project a lot more time consuming and stressful using my homemade gauge than it needed to be.

“Do you not want your trains to run at all?”

“Why do you want to make it any more difficult than it already is?”

“I’ll see you back here purchasing some Peco track once you screw it up!”

These were some examples of the good natured ribbing I was receiving from my local hobby shop, and I’m happy that this module is small enough (just 1 by 3 feet) that I’ll be able to bring it in to show off my results.  The bottom line is the train ran great its first run, and the flexibility of the handlaid track allowed me to put in two very wicked tight-radius curves that make the visible track plan a whole lot more interesting.

Check out some pictures:

Ties were laid using Z scale Fast Tracks tie rack jigs

Here the ties are completely laid and the river bed is in. Rail roller is the orange contraption at the top.

Here I've laid down some of the code 40 rail and secured it with pliobond

The maiden run around the now completed loop.

Overhead view of the module and completed trackwork.

When I got married, I’d say the largest change I noticed culturally is how much time, effort, planning, and anticipation went into the annual decorating for Christmas.  The Sunday after Thanksgiving is of grave importance, and involves getting a Christmas tree (real NOT fake), and busting out crates of decorations, turning down the thermostat (we’re in South Florida after all), playing Christmas music, and drinking organic eggnog.

This year I’m contributing a Christmas decoration in addition to the NC State themed ornaments I’ve contributed the past couple of years.  Knowing how The Wife misses snow and winter scenes, I’m going to attempt to build a 1×3 ft diorama Z Scale layout, which will be covered in snow and ice.

A couple of weeks ago we picked up the engine, cars, and a test loop of track, and it was probably one of the more interesting sales experiences for the staff at Warrick’s Custom Hobbies as he would suggest logical models (cars and engines from the same railroad) only to be stuffed with an incredulous “But it’s NOT GREEN OR RED!”  He got the hang of it quickly and we managed to find contentment in a MicroTrains Line Canadian Pacific (red) GP35 locomotive, a Great Northern (green) box car, a Burlington Northern (green) box car, and a red tank car.

We’ve got roughly 3 months to go.

In software, we sometimes build one to throw away, and it seems like that’s going to be the norm for me with any new type of Fast Tracks trackwork, as I often get the track very close on the first try, but make some mistakes along the way and learn from them, producing a much better second effort.

One of my goals is to be able to photograph this layout (diorama to many) and get it published, and this is a pretty major challenge considering that while I’ve been armchair modeling for many years, I really have no experience other than the very basic items I did when I was in the eight and ninth grades.  This leads to an obsession with making sure the trackwork is bullet proof, one that the Fast Tracks tools supports really well with their adherence to standards and attention to detail.

I started this entry quite a bit ago, and so have no completed both crossings (the throwaway and the permanent) and my only real challenge was cutting the isolation gaps and ensuring that the rails were perfectly aligned.  I had some issues with the fixture on making sure that things were perfectly aligned, but these were cleared up by using an NMRA gauge to double check everything.

All in all, I’m very happy with the product and results.  I think that the crossing is going to add a lot of interest to the port setting, and seems to operate just fine with cars being pushed and pulled across the crossing by a variety of engines without issue.

N Scale: Hand built crossing using FastTracks fixtures with Code 55 Rail.

I’ll probably add another crossing in the maybe-never-coming third module which would involve an interchange.

Here are some pictures.  I would highly recommend getting one of these with your Fast Tracks fixtures if you’re building more than 5 or so turnouts.

It includes a magnet on the upper right, so it clicks right into position and doesn’t need to be held in alignment.  Very well thought out, well designed tool.

This was the workbench in the living room, before getting kicked into the garage.  Turns out, it’s not so bad.  Here’s the workspace in the garage:

I started by soldering together three of the turnouts that are grouped very tightly, and placing them down on the Homasote roadbed.  I had preweathered these turnouts by painting them “Grimy Black” using an airbrush, so they just needed to be glued down.

Next, I needed to lay two straight sections, the lower being the mainline, and the upper being an industrial siding.  This was accomplished by using the tie rack jig to space the ties one-by-one, then putting tape on the back, lifting out the ties, and then gluing them into place.

Lining up each edge with a straightedge.  I’m using Elmers glue, which works really well and dries fast.

Next, I painted the ties using some paint thinner and Floquil’s track painting marker set.  They work remarkably well, but you need ventilation as they’re oil based.

Here’s what they look like painted.

Next, I installed the turnouts and track for the siding, making sure things were in gauge as they were being glued down.

Here’s a shot with the main installed, and some of my newly weathered cars taking it out for a drive.

Notes from my experience:

• Measure, measure measure.  I screwed up the placement of the ties once because I didn’t double check, that was a pain.
• The tie rack jig works really well, but takes a surprisingly long time to put the ties in.  Not much to be done about that.
• If I were to do it all over again, I wouldn’t stack the Homasote 2 inches high like shown.
• I forgot to drill throwbar holes for the switches prior to installation, thus locking me in to manual throwbars.  Not the end of the world as I was planning on that anyway, but something to note for future installs.
• You don’t need as many PC board crossties as the template for straight track from Fasttracks calls for.  Also, my branch line tie rack didn’t match up to the branchline metal jig, which was frustrating.
• Next time, I’m taking Tim Warris’ advice, and painting all the ties grimy black, instead of tie-brown.  I think it helps them pop better and they look more prototypical after it’s all done.
• I needed a super-small drill bit, which I don’t have, so I had to order that in order to install the ground throws.

The point is, I’ve looked at so many model railroad pictures that I can instantly spot the tells.  Rail joiners, Code 100 track that’s too big, oversized couplers, and unpainted and unweathered rails.  In fact, the track is one of the biggest things that can ruin a photo of a model.  A little weathering can cover up almost any model and make things look nice, but the track is really hard to cover up.  While I think Kato’s Unitrack is an excellent starter project, I HATED how it looked when messing with the second layout, and it bugged me to the point where I was very unsatisfied with the decision.  My chronic fear of derailments (which I experienced a lot of on my first HO layout, mainly due to poor construction and even worse components) was overcome by my hatred for the visuals and the realization that I’d never make it into the pages of a magazine with my plastic molded track roadbed.  I also stumbled across the aforementioned FastTracks outfit that was really pushing hand laid track and their tool sets, and I was surprised that one of the biggest selling points from their point of view was completely trouble free operation.

I spent over a year reading Tim’s blogs (the Port Kelsey Railway and the Bronx Terminal), and spastically checking handlaidtrack.com for updates, watching videos, reading forum posts, and basically wondering if I could possibly build turnouts in N scale of sufficient quality, and have fun doing it.

FastTracks isn’t cheap.  I’d say that unless you’re building over 20 turnouts, you don’t have a chance to recoup your investment on a pure dollars-to-dollars basis.  That’s unfortunate too, because if you’re building over 20 turnouts, you might rethink your decision to hand lay them.  However, now that I have my tools, fixtures, and 6 turnouts under my belt, I think that there’s no question that handlaying track the FastTracks way is the best way to approach model track.

A couple of notes (in no particular order):

• Buy the switch kit, then buy more rail than you’ll think you’ll need, and buy all the tools he recommends in the turnout builder’s manual.  Tools are hyper critical when doing really intricate stuff like this.  If you don’t have exactly the right tools, you’ll wast a lot of time and get frustrated.  Things I couldn’t live without but was on the fence with before purchasing them: the jeweller’s saw, the fine soldering tip, the flux, the point form tool, and the Quicksticks ties.
• It really sucks that they ship from Canada.  The shipping is ridiculously expensive, and slow.  Plus, you get to pay customs fees.  What the hell was NAFTA for anyway?
• Watch the movies.  They’re important and really show you good techniques.  And read the manual before you build a switch, then follow along step by step as you build.
• My first turnout was 75% good, which meant it was a complete waste.  That’s OK.  I used to it practice putting on the ties and practice weathering.
• I didn’t order the stockaid tool until just now.  Will review that when it arrives – my guess is it will remove the need I currently have for a dremel tool.  If so, that’s a big plus.
• The soldering is super easy once you watch the videos and once you have the right tools.  My tip got accidentally left out of my order, and I tried to build my first disaster turnout with the normal blunt tip.  Get the fine tip.  I bought 3 replacements after I saw the difference.
• Consider getting an auto-off switch for your soldering iron.  The wife doesn’t really get inspired with confidence when you leave your iron on for 48+ hours by accident.  It doesn’t help you soldering tip either.
• The turnouts operate ridiculously well.  It’s hard to overstate this.  Seeing an N Scale model roll through without any bumping or movement up and down or jerking is just amazing.
• The turnouts look ridiculously good.  They are almost indistinguishable from the prototype.  Only the isolation gaps on the frog remain to give it away, and you can fill these in with plastic if you must.
• It’s irritating how there’s no mechanism to “switch” the turnouts until they’re installed.  Nothing you can do about that, but I just thought I’d mention it.

If you’re serious about modeling a railroad, you must consider FastTracks.  Now that I’ve built six turnouts, I can build one start to finish in about 35 minutes, which is about as fast a modeling project as you can have.  Even building 30+ turnouts, the time invested is roughly 20 hours, which is less time than you’re going to spend messing with the commercial guys to get working properly, and then you start to really experience a major cost savings.  I’m not sure there’s a more important item for a railroad than the track, and you can’t easily change or replace it down the line.

Also, I’m not sure I’ve ever received a higher quality product from an outfit that’s no more than 2-3 guys.  The packaging is great, and the video resources and manuals are the best I’ve ever seen, on a topic that is super intricate.  I can honestly say that it’s really hard to complain about cost when the product is so top notch on so many levels, from the printable templates down to the DVD that’s included (just wish it would run on a Mac!).

Excellent tools, lots of fun, great looking and great running results.

This is used Kato Unitrack I had on my old model railroad, but it’s in great condition, and represents quite a bit of money invested, so it should be a really good deal for anyone interested.

And yes, I’m hijacking Sara’s Orient Products ebay account in lieu of making a new one.  Still need a mother’s day gift?  Maybe a high quality pearl ring?